If you’re a rock climber who’s new to Miami, you may be thinking “there’s no good outdoor climbing nearby.” Ben Lazar, assistant director for the Outdoor Pursuits Center, is here to change that perception and advocate for climbing areas within a day’s drive. There are many great locations for outdoor climbing throughout the midwest. It just takes a little initiative to get out and find these locations and learn about how to properly access them.
It should be noted that climbing locations should be accessed via public land. Always respect property boundaries and adhere to Leave No Trace ethics.
John Bryan State Park
Located in Yellow Springs, OH, John Bryan State Park has top rope climbing on limestone walls that are roughly 25-35 feet high. Each climbing area at JBSP has hikeable access to the top of each cliff. Each route has bolted anchors at the top of the cliff. This allows climbers the opportunity to build their own top rope anchors for climbing and rappelling. JBSP has routes ranging from 5.2-5.11 in difficulty. So there’s something there for everyone. JBSP is a 1hr and 23 min drive from Oxford.
Located in Springfield, OH, the Mad River Gorge offers bouldering and lead/sport climbing on fairly short limestone walls. The walls vary in height from 25-40 feet high. Often referred to as “The Mad” – this location is managed and maintained by the Clark County Park District with help from the Ohio Climbers Coalition.The Mad boasts nearly 200 different boulder problems & 100 roped climbing routes. The Mad features boulder problems from V0 up to V9 and roped routes rated 5.5 up to 5.13a. That makes this location accessible and fun for beginners and expert climbers alike. The Mad River Gorge is a 1hr and 20 min drive from Oxford.
Located near Ironton, OH, Lake Vesuvius gives climbers the option to boulder, top rope, sport climb, and trad climb. Lake Vesuvius is part of the Wayne National Forest in South Central Ohio. The walls here are at most 35-40 feet high with 3 different climbing crags to choose from. The routes here vary in difficulty with anything from 5.5 to 5.11a. This area is inclusive for all different types of climbers. Lake Vesuvius is a 3 hour drive from Oxford.
Located in Eastern Kentucky, the Red River Gorge (often called “The Red”) is a world class climbing destination with thousands of routes. It would take a lifetime and more to complete every available route in The Red. Climbers come from all over the planet to visit the Red. The Red has hundreds of crags spanning miles of National Forest land and privately owned land made available to climbers through non-profit organizations.The Red offers incredible rock quality with “bulletproof” sandstone. Climbers have the ability to do bouldering, sport, and trad climbing at the Red. However, the Red is most well known for its sport climbing. With the thousands of routes available, there is no shortage of easy to moderate to challenging climbs. There truly is something for everyone at the Red. Don’t forget to stop by the climber’s haven of Miguel’s Pizza in Slade, KY for a post-send meal. The Red is a 3 hour drive from Oxford.
The Miami climber should be able to enjoy these climbing locations throughout their 4 years in Oxford. These 4 locations are just a few amongst many others within a days drive of Oxford. Get out and explore and see what you can climb!