{"id":317,"date":"2018-09-19T09:58:30","date_gmt":"2018-09-19T13:58:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/?p=317"},"modified":"2018-09-19T14:09:55","modified_gmt":"2018-09-19T18:09:55","slug":"the-salamander","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/2018\/09\/the-salamander\/","title":{"rendered":"The Salamander"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-318\" src=\"http:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard1-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard1-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>By Caroline Godard<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><em>Caroline Godard is majoring in English and is also enrolled in the combined BA\/MA program in French.\u00a0 In addition, she has done coursework and an Undergraduate Summer Scholars project in Renaissance history and art history.\u00a0 Earlier this year, she published an article on Andrea Alciato and the early modern emblem in <\/em>Journeys into the Past [<a href=\"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/2018\/02\/andrea-alciato-and-the-politics-of-the-printed-image\/\">https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/2018\/02\/andrea-alciato-and-the-politics-of-the-printed-image\/<\/a>]<em>.\u00a0 This summer, following a study-abroad program in Paris, she worked as a tour guide at the Ch\u00e2teau de Gizeux in the Loire Valley, France.\u00a0 Here she reflects on that experience.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>When I think of the <em>Galerie Fran\u00e7ois Ier <\/em>at the ch\u00e2teau de Gizeux, I first remember the large mantelpiece anchored along one wall, and how the deep brown painted paneling is patterned with soft shades of gray and blue and yellow and red that dance across the wood. Depicted at the very top of the mantelpiece is a slender four-legged animal surrounded by flames. When I asked visitors to identify this animal, they often couldn\u2019t. Perhaps it looked distorted to them because it was too high up on the mantelpiece, or perhaps the contrast between the grayish animal and the murky blue background wasn\u2019t strong enough.<\/p>\n<p>This animal is a salamander, and when analyzed together with several other symbols, it indicates that the mantelpiece represents King Francis I\u2019s personal device. The salamander was the French king\u2019s personal symbol, and above it rests a golden crown, alluding to his connection to the monarchy. And, in a typical Renaissance combination of text and image, we find emblazoned just above the fireplace King Francis\u2019s Latin motto: <em>nutrisco et extingo<\/em>: <em>j<\/em><em>e nourris le bon feu et j\u2019\u00e9teins le mauvais feu. <\/em>In English, this means that \u201cI nourish the good fire and extinguish the bad.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-319\" src=\"http:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard3-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard3-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Francis I (1494-1547) was a sixteenth-century French king who is credited with bringing the Italian Renaissance to France. He reigned from 1515 until his death in 1547, and the Renaissance movement\u2019s migration to France can be traced to Francis I\u2019s involvement in the Italian Wars, during which he battled other European powers for control of the Italian peninsula. However, the war also allowed Francis I to establish contacts with several influential Italian artists and writers. Most famously, Leonardo da Vinci came to live and work in the Loire valley under Francis I\u2019s patronage.<\/p>\n<p>The mantelpiece with Francis I\u2019s symbol is located at the ch\u00e2teau de Gizeux, a castle in the Loire valley. While the paneling in the room dates to the early seventeenth century, this mantelpiece was added during the nineteenth century, about two hundred years later. It was copied after an older stone mantelpiece located in an older part of the ch\u00e2teau. After learning about Francis\u2019s symbol at Gizeux, I noticed this salamander popping up elsewhere in the Loire valley, like at the <em>ch\u00e2teau de Chambord<\/em> and <em>ch\u00e2teau de Blois<\/em>, several of Francis I\u2019s residences that I toured on one of my days off.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-320\" src=\"http:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard2-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard2-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>For the month of July, I was a tour guide at the Gizeux castle in the Loire valley of France. I was the only American there, and the four other interns with whom I worked\u2014Emeline, Juliette, Keltia and Marie, all students around my age\u2014were French. Although we only knew each other for a short while, we quickly became inseparable, first by necessity and then by choice. We worked together, ate together and slept in the same bedroom, but then in the evenings after the ch\u00e2teau\u2019s closure we would do everything together, too. Sometimes we would leave Gizeux and go out to dinner in the towns of Bourgeuil or Langeais, and once we picnicked at a park in Candes Saint-Martin, where we watched the sun set over the Loire river.<\/p>\n<p>The <em>Galerie Fran\u00e7ois I<\/em> was upstairs, right next to the area of the castle where we lived. Every morning after breakfast, we interns would split up to prepare the ch\u00e2teau for the influx of visitors soon to arrive. Some of us would open the first-floor salons, others would handle the gift shop, and one or two of us would always have to \u201ccheck the <em>Galerie Fran\u00e7ois Ier<\/em>.\u201d Normally the gallery was already orderly, so we didn\u2019t have to do much more than straighten the table and chairs into its usual arrangement. During this time of the morning, the weak sunlight would filter through the huge windows facing the enclosed garden out back. I was rarely alone in that room, but whenever I was everything felt very gloomy and still.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-321\" src=\"http:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard4-300x237.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"237\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard4-300x237.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard4-768x606.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard4-1024x808.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The ch\u00e2teau de Gizeux\u2019s Renaissance owners were the du Bellay family, a very powerful and well-known noble line with connections to the Catholic church and French government. Francis I\u2019s device is painted above the mantelpiece because he visited the ch\u00e2teau twice for two of the family\u2019s marriages. The du Bellays thus added Francis\u2019s symbol to commemorate the king\u2019s presence, which was a great honor.<\/p>\n<p>I always loved explaining the <em>Galerie Fran\u00e7ois I <\/em>to visitors because I was fascinated by the du Bellay family history. A year ago, I had studied several poems written by another du Bellay family member, Joachim du Bellay, in a French literature course at Miami University. Joachim du Bellay never lived at Gizeux\u2014it belonged to another branch of his family\u2014but while at Gizeux, I tried to learn as much as I could about him. Most of my research was rudimentary, limited to quick Google searches (there was no cell phone service in the ch\u00e2teau, and the only WiFi hotspot was in our bedroom).<\/p>\n<p>Joachim du Bellay, I learned, was a sixteenth-century Renaissance French poet from the Loire valley region of France. At the time of du Bellay\u2019s birth in 1522, King Francis I had been reigning for the past six years and France had been at war with Italy off and on for the past twenty-eight years. In 1549, when Joachim du Bellay was 27, he wrote the<em> Defense and Illustration of the French Language<\/em>, a text promoting the use of the French vernacular in scientific and literary works. In this text, Joachim du Bellay argues that French writers need to create a new style of poetry inspired by classical works, that they should work to enrich the French vocabulary while also imitating ancient Greek and Roman writers.<\/p>\n<p>This text is now considered the manifesto of a group of Parisian poets called <em>La Pl\u00e9iade<\/em>, and Joachim du Bellay was one of the Pl\u00e9iade\u2019s principal members. These poets were humanists, and they drew inspiration from the classics, including ancient Greek and Latin languages, literature and history. Several of the seven Pl\u00e9iade poets, including Joachim du Bellay and Pierre de Ronsard, popularized the form of the Petrarchan sonnet in France. The Petrarchan sonnet originated in Italy, and it is a fourteen-line poem with a specific rhyme scheme that is divided into two stanzas. The first stanza has eight lines, so it is an octave, and the second has six, so it is a sestet. By innovating the French language, Joachim du Bellay continued the literary, artistic and philosophical Renaissance movement that Francis I had brought to France.<\/p>\n<p>In my French literature class, we studied several of du Bellay\u2019s poems from <em>The Ruins of Rome, <\/em>a collection of poems that Joachim du Bellay wrote upon his arrival in Rome in 1553. He was in Rome with his cousin, the cardinal Jean du Bellay. These poems are melancholic, and Joachim confronts his past illusion of Rome\u2014which was largely informed by Latin literature and language that he had been studying\u2014with the real Rome that he is surprised and somewhat disappointed to see in front of him. In <em>The Ruins of Rome,<\/em> Joachim du Bellay expresses his longing for a city that doesn\u2019t exist anymore, or perhaps for a city that never truly existed.<\/p>\n<p>Gizeux\u2019s archives were destroyed during the French Revolution, so it is difficult to know whether Joachim du Bellay ever visited the castle. Sometimes I wondered why I was so interested in Joachim du Bellay, since it is doubtful that he was ever connected to Gizeux. However, despite this ambiguity, I liked that here at Gizeux my connection to Joachim du Bellay felt more concrete than it ever had before. I had previously studied Joachim\u2019s rhyme schemes and stanzas, but now his poetry felt more tangible, connected to the history of objects and people that I talked about every day.<\/p>\n<p>Before my arrival at Gizeux, Renaissance France was an abstract idea formed by the literature and history that I had read about at home in Oxford, Ohio, thousands of miles away. I loved my idealized image of France, but this summer I realized that it was something I had built myself. Like Joachim du Bellay\u2019s Rome, it didn\u2019t really exist, and probably never did.<\/p>\n<p>Early in July, Emeline, the head intern, took us to see the decaying<em> vieux ch\u00e2teau<\/em>, the oldest and most dilapidated part of the castle. The interior is so unstable that visitors are forbidden from entering, but sometimes the interns and the de Laffon family\u2019s children\u2014the de Laffons are the owners and managers of the castle\u2014would hang out in \u201c<em>le vieux ch\u00e2teau\u201d<\/em> for fun.<\/p>\n<p>Emeline wanted to show us the original Francis I mantelpiece, which was on the second floor. She led us up the crumbling stairs, which felt dark and dangerous and narrow, and then guided us to our left for the clearest view of the old stone object.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cYou can take pictures, but don\u2019t show them to anyone. This part of the ch\u00e2teau isn\u2019t open to visitors,\u201d Emeline reminded us.<\/p>\n<p>I opened my iPhone and took a picture of the mantelpiece, mostly because I knew that I would probably never see it again. Then I took two more photos, from a distance this time, so I could see Francis I\u2019s Latin motto and the salamander symbol represented above. In contrast to the restored mantelpiece in the <em>Galerie Fran\u00e7ois I,<\/em> this image was duller, the paint was fainter and less vibrant.<\/p>\n<p>As I look at these photographs now, I also remember everything that isn\u2019t contained in the images, like how I was casually nervous that the floor would cave in, and how the space smelled musty and weird and was obviously rarely used. I remember Marie\u2019s and Keltia\u2019s quiet excitement, and how I was quiet, too, partly because I was still a little shy speaking French but mostly because I just didn\u2019t have anything to say.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-322\" src=\"http:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard5-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard5-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard5-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/files\/2018\/09\/Goddard5-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Interning at Gizeux felt like living in another world and, in a way, it was. I have many pictures from my summer, some of which I cannot share and others that I probably never will. Sometimes, absentmindedly, I scroll through all of these images on my phone and wonder what I will do with them. Will I ever delete these images? Or, if I keep them, will they slowly become less significant to me, buried in my iPhone camera roll under everything else in the world that I deem worthy of documentation?<\/p>\n<p>I have a few pictures of the <em>Galerie Fran\u00e7ois I,<\/em> and I know that I could find more online if I wanted. On my last day at Gizeux, Keltia and held a mini photo shoot for ourselves, which began seriously but then quickly grew sarcastic. We took pictures of each other inside all of the salons and galleries, documenting our relationship to the rooms we knew so well.<\/p>\n<p>I still have those pictures on my phone, too. But when I think of the <em>Galerie Fran\u00e7ois I <\/em>at the ch\u00e2teau de Gizeux<em>,<\/em> that photo shoot with Keltia isn\u2019t what I immediately remember. Instead, all I can think of is the combination of colors on the huge patterned mantelpiece, and of how excited I was every time someone recognized that the painting of a grayish flaming animal was Francis I\u2019s salamander. I am fascinated now more than ever by everything that I cannot see.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Caroline Godard Caroline Godard is majoring in English and is also enrolled in the combined BA\/MA program in French.\u00a0 In addition, she has done [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":781,"featured_media":321,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,7,24,23],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-317","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-essays","category-historical-journeys","category-issue-1-volume-iii","category-volume-iii"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/317","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/781"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=317"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/317\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":338,"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/317\/revisions\/338"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/321"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=317"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=317"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sites.miamioh.edu\/hst-journeys\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=317"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}